Going with the flow in the Adriatic
Jeannine Williamson discovers the Croatian art of slowing down aboard Bellissima, where island discoveries go hand in hand with relaxation.
“Now it is time for fjaka,” announces our cruise director, Ivana, as we finish a leisurely three-course lunch. With our afternoon shore excursion not scheduled until later in the day, there’s plenty of time to relax before heading ashore. Her suggestion is met with unanimous approval, and most of us head for the comfy chairs and loungers on the open deck.
Pronounced fee-ah-kah, this distinctly Croatian word describes a state of guilt-free contentment that comes from doing absolutely nothing and simply enjoying the moment. Originating in the Dalmatian coastal region, it seems less like a word and more like a philosophy.
After several days aboard Bellissima, I’m beginning to understand the appeal. The sea is sparkling, the bar is open, the next island is somewhere on the horizon and there’s absolutely no need to hurry. On larger ships, the choice of activities, entertainment and organised excursions can make it tempting to fill every moment. Here, there’s plenty of room for spontaneity, leaving the days to unfold naturally.
Our small-ship cruise follows the Dalmatian coast at a gentle pace, combining historic towns and beautiful islands with the simple pleasure of swimming in the crystal-clear Adriatic. The swim stops quickly become a daily ritual. Anchored in sheltered bays, we slip into the turquoise water to kayak, paddleboard or simply bob around on giant rubber rings and inflatables.
There’s a pleasing informality to life aboard the 36-passenger Bellissima, part of a fleet of luxury and premium family-owned and operated yachts. Conversations flow easily among my fellow passengers, a friendly mix of Brits, Australians, Americans, South Africans and a Croatian couple who are equally eager to visit their country’s southern islands.
Many of the crew are related, including affable Captain Luka and his younger brother Nikola, the first mate, as well as siblings Zvonimir – ‘Call me Z’ – and Paula, who are variously busy behind the bar mixing cocktails, serving meals and exchanging sibling banter.
They soon learn our food and drink preferences and, with so few passengers, Bellissima takes on the feel of a floating house party during our seven-night sailing from Split to Dubrovnik.
Our first stops take us to the spectacular waterfalls of Krka National Park, where cascades tumble through lush green scenery, and Trogir, renowned for its fortified historic centre. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Trogir is a place to wander without a particular destination in mind, following narrow lanes between handsome stone buildings and stumbling upon atmospheric squares, intricate architectural details and glimpses of everyday life.
Further along the coast, Vis offers a more secluded side of Croatia. Its history as a top-secret Yugoslav military naval base, that was off limits to foreign visitors from 1944 until 1989, has helped preserve a sense of remoteness. Fishing villages and traditional vineyards add to its distinctive character, while the island also caught the eye of film-makers, who used it as a location for Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again.
Hvar, by contrast, makes no attempt to hide its glamorous side. Superyachts rub shoulders in the harbour, cafe terraces spill into the sunshine and the waterfront hums with activity. But there’s no need to join the crowds all day. Away from the quayside, vineyards and family-run wineries reveal a quieter aspect of island life.
One excursion takes us to the Tomic winery, where we descend into cool stone cellars to sample the wines and the 150-year-history behind them. Back aboard Bellissima, Paula hosts another tasting, broadening our previously scant knowledge of Croatia’s long viticultural heritage.
We discover an intriguing British royal connection dating back more than 70 years, when royal envoys travelled across Europe in search of a wine fit for a queen. Their choice was Traminac, an aromatic white wine made from the grape of the same name, which was served at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953 and, continuing the tradition, at the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton in 2011. It’s paired with cheese from the island of Pag, which provides another talking point. Made from sheep’s milk, it owes its distinctive taste to the island’s salty environment. Strong bora winds carry sea spray inland, leaving deposits on the grasses and aromatic herbs grazed by the sheep, giving the resulting cheese its briny tang.
Food and wine are central to the experience. Bellissima’s consistently delicious meals, which arrive as if by magic from a compact galley, showcase regional specialities. One day, the menu takes its inspiration from Istria, with truffle-flavoured pasta followed by grilled cod, roasted asparagus and walnut and almond cake. Another day, Lika takes the culinary spotlight with salt-baked beetroot and goat’s cheese, veal fillet with leek sauce and honey mousse. Vegetarian dishes and other dietary requirements can also be accommodated.
The cruise’s half-board format means we head ashore independently most evenings to sample local cafes, bars, restaurants and nightlife. With Bellissima docking in port overnight, there’s never a rush to get back, and the arrangement encourages genuine contact with the places we visit.
Unforgettable Travel provides a handy dining guide with tried-and-tested recommendations, plus a 10% discount at most of them. This leads us to intimate restaurants tucked away in old stone buildings, up labyrinthine alleys and in shaded courtyards threaded with vines – places we would never have found under our own steam.
At Casa Don Dio in Trogir, finely sliced courgette carpaccio, served with Greek yoghurt, lemon and pine nuts, demonstrates how simple ingredients can become something special. On Korcula, we wander the streets of the walled Old Town, whose distinctive fishbone-shaped layout was designed to encourage cooling breezes while offering protection from harsh winter winds. The island is also associated with Marco Polo, although its claim to be his birthplace remains contested by Venice. We settle for dinner at LD Garden Restaurant on the waterfront, where a speedboat fashioned to resemble a sports car speeds past. It’s a wonderfully unexpected sight in a setting otherwise steeped in history.
At the end of the cruise, Dubrovnik provides a suitably memorable finale, with dinner on the terrace at Restaurant Dubrovnik overlooking the walled city’s red rooftops.
Back aboard Bellissima, we often round off the evening with a nightcap on the top deck or our cabin balcony before heading to bed.
By now, fjaka makes perfect sense. This is a cruise where some of the best moments are often those that cannot be scheduled: a swim that lasts longer than intended, an extra glass of local wine, an unexpected restaurant or a conversation with someone proud to share their corner of Croatia. Bellissima offers the freedom to savour all of them, without the need to rush on to the next attraction.
BOOK IT
Unforgettable Croatia offers seven-night small-ship cruises, with fares starting from £1,842, including breakfast, lunch, two dinners, private transfers, all excursions and Wi-Fi. Fares on MV Bellissima are priced from £1,996.
Visit unforgettablecroatia.com or call 0208 004 2345.
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