It's easy to go overboard for small boat sailing!

Marion falls for puppy love and French wine, then shares a lifelong secret!

Going solo on the rivers of France by Marion Ainge

Somebody told me that his name was Bill - and when I saw him, my heart stood still!

With apologies to The Crystals and their 1960s heart-throb, this particular gorgeous Bill lives on a French truffle farm.

A miniature, fluffy, brown and white, 18 month-old, miniature American Shepherd, Bill earns his keep by searching for the delicate, treasured fungi.

On a warm, sunny day, we're at the Pepinière Moine truffle farm which rests in the village of Cabrières d'Avignon, within the picturesque Vaucluse area which lies in the heart of the Luberon, south west France.

Lucie, 30, daughter of farm owners,Véronique and Alain Moine, says she doesn't speak English very well so I attempt to converse in my best French. Lucie has trained her dog, one of three, to seek and find these knobbly, black, summer and winter diamonds. We walk along stony grass edged paths until Lucie calls out 'Cherches! Cherches! (Find! Find!). Bill starts sniffing around and paws at a patch, digging until a much-favoured truffle appears. He almost smiles and gets a treat and a cuddle for every find.. Winter truffles have the most flavour and can cost up to 1,000 euros per kilo.

This visit is just one of the included excursions on the Riviera Travel Rhône, Burgundy and Provence solo river cruise. In Lyon we board the magnificent, gleaming Thomas Hardy, our home for seven nights. On a solo cruise, each guest has a luxury, double cabin, meaning extra space and comfort. And with only one person in each of the 167 cabins, this spacious, expertly and tastefully-designed ship never feels crowded. Crew to guest ratio is significantly higher too, ensuring the best level of service and attention.

Passengers, on this cruise, the majority in their 60s and 70s, are travelling solo for various reasons, some for the first time. But whatever their story, they're assured of a warm welcome and in no time they'll settle in with newfound friends. Riviera Travel crew know just how to make people feel comfortable and happy.

My roomy, upper deck cabin boasts a seating area with two chairs and table in front of a sliding glazed patio door, which enables stunning views of the ever-changing vista. a double bed cleverly-angled to get the most of the views, a rain shower bathroom, flat screen tv plus tea and coffee-making facilities.

It's relaxing to admire the scenery and life ashore in the lounge area, on the sun deck or in the shade. There's a splash pool and putting green. The terrace area at the fore of the ship is located right in front of the wheelhouse where I meet Captain Quentin, 32, who navigates the winding river and negotiates around 50 locks along our watery route, some of which facilitate only a 30cm or 12 inch width gap on each side of the Thomas Hardy.

Evening entertainment includes quizzes, music and dancing. Head receptionist Kata from Hungary belts it out with a blow-your-mind rendering of Tina Turner's 'Proud Mary'. French duo, Pierre and glamorous Nicole, who makes a quick exit for a costume change between dances, perform a fabulous selection of avant-garde French ballroom dancing.

Dining is an intrinsic part of the cruise. Everyone looks forward to sitting at their table in the elegant restaurant, where the head chef and his team prepare high end, delectable menus of delightful dishes every day. The chef's splendid Signature Dinner on the Captain's Evening includes Filet Mignon with Truffle-infused Parsnip Puree, Confit Baby Carrot Fondant Potato, Snow Pea and Charon Rouge Sauce. Speciality wines accompany each course.

Lyon is known as the Culinary Capital of France and the Gastronomy Centre of the World. The city's regulars and visitors tuck in to delicious, hearty dishes in Les Bouchons, the 'no frills' restaurants, which originate in the 17^th and 18^th centuries ,when silk workers wanted cheap, nourishing meals. Nothing goes to waste here. Specialities include Andouillette (sausage made from seasoned pork intestines, wine and onions ), Tablier de Sapeur (fried, breaded tripe) and tasty Quenelles (dumplings filled with fish or meat).

Les Traboules of Lyon are hidden passages many of which are open to the public and accessed by doors on a street in Vieux Lyon. During the 4^th century, these couloirs provided access to fresh water from the river. Integral to the city's silk trade boom in the Renaissance, in the Second World War they enabled many to escape Gestapo raids. Visitors can enter the weaving room at the Soierie Saint Jean, where exquisite silk scarves, wraps and ties are made.

Some of the world's major wines, such as Meursault, Chablis, Pommard and Côte de Rhône are produced in Beaune, Burgundy's wine capital. The Hotel-Dieu, originally built in in the 15^th century as a hospital for the poor, is a jewel of High Gothic architecture.

The huge, first century Roman temple of Augustus and Livia dominates the city centre of culture vultures' favourite, Vienne. There is also a Roman theatre, preserved Roman road, archaeological garden and other ancient artefacts. It's a city of art, music, history and archaeology. The second largest market in France, held in Vienne every Saturday, is a gourmet's utopia.

The scenery is stunning as we glide along the silvery green, rippling river, passing lush vineyards and pretty villages towards Tain l'Hermitage, where the world revered Syrah is produced.

In the Ardèche Gorges. steep limestone cliffs drop down from up to 300 metres. It has taken more than one hundred million years for the pounding waters of the ice blue Ardèche river to carve a channel in these deep gorges which cover a route of 23 miles. The 30,000 year-old, famous, natural Pont d'Arc provides an entrance to the canyon. Fringed by a sandy beach, this is a popular spot for picnics, canoeing and swimming.

Our route includes visits to the impressive Pont du Gard Roman aqueduct, a wonder of the ancient world, and the Pont d'Avignon. Remember the school song – Sur le Pont d'Avignon?

In early summer, the lavender fields are alive with a blooming purple haze. At the Lavender Farm museum we learn about the cultivation and distillation of the herb's essential oils.

We're in the Midi and Provençal city of Arles where Van Gogh lived for just over a year from February 1888. After two years in Paris, he yearned for the sunshine and colours of the south of France. At the 'Yellow House', the light and stunning views of the beautiful countryside inspired his 300 works including Sunflowers.

Caesar made Arles a Roman colony in 46BC and remains from that era include an amphitheatre, arena, baths and a burial site. In 1995, Lifelong resident, Jean Calment, aged 120 was recognised as the oldest living person. She died at the age of 122. Her secret? Cigarettes, lots of chocolate, desserts and red wine.

I could get used to lots of chocolate and red wine!

Marion Ainge September 2025