Cruising on P&O's Iona
A Review by Alan Fairfax
Summer comes to an end and as we drift through autumn thoughts turn to taking a cruise to the sunshine, but where, without having to endure a long flight. I found the answer, and a few weeks later found myself at Southampton boarding P&O’s ship Iona for a two week cruise to the sun. The sun had set as we made our way past the Isle of Wight heading for the open sea and the Bay of Biscay which according to the weather forecast was going to be rough.
Waking the following morning the weather forecast has proved correct, all that can be seen from my balcony is sea. The sky is overcast, the waves are topped with white crests, yes, it’s rough.
First day at sea is Remembrance Sunday and commemorated with a service in the ship’s theatre. Despite having a seating capacity of 950 every seat is occupied and all spare space taken with standing passengers. Readings from the Captain and his staff, a trumpeter playing the Last Post, the Poppy décor, a very moving experience. Two days later is Remembrance Day with a meet up of veterans from the armed forces. The ship provided a large decorated cake for the event during which the 2 minute silence at 11am takes place. Well done P&O.
3 days at sea and we arrive in Arrecife, capital of Lanzarote the most northerly of the Canary Islands. Just 80 miles from the northwest coast of Africa it enjoys a subtropical/desert climate and has much to offer if the visitor is prepared to explore.
Playa Blanca in the south of the island, a resort sporting beautiful golden sand beaches lapped by clear blue water, the beautiful marina where boutiques languish between restaurants, tapas and music bars. If your taste is for fresh fish, visit El Golfo on the west coast where the Atlantic crashes as spray and foam onto the black sand shore, try to comprehend that if you could see a little over 4,000 miles across the sea you would be gazing on the shoreline of Florida.
That night we sail for our next port, Las Palmas the capital of Gran Canaria. The port certainly lives up to its name ‘The Palms’, tastefully designed buildings, the waterfront, a wonderful park area boasting bars and restaurants, the sun appears raising the temperature to 24c. The harbour busy as yachts, sleek cabin cruisers and ferries mingle with ships of the Spanish Navy and a sea going Customs Cutter. A wonderful port to sit, relax, take in the sun and watch the world go by. There is a hop on/hop off bus that will take you on an island tour and stops a few minutes’ walk from where the ship is berthed.
Next day we arrive in Santa Cruz de Tenerife our last stop in the Canaries, popular as a winter holiday location. With a tropical climate, it comes as no surprise the island produces fruits such as the famous Canary Banana, the plantations of which litter the landscape. Tenerife is home to Mount Teide, Spain’s highest peak at 12,198ft set in the Teide National Park attracting visitors in their thousands each year who ascend towards the summit by cable car to watch the sunset over the ocean. When the sun has set it becomes an astronomers delight as there is virtually no light pollution.
Following Tenerife it should be Funchal, Madeira but the Captain announces that due to bad weather we were missing this out and heading for Cadiz, then Lisbon to replace Madeira.
Following a day at sea we berth in the ancient city of Cadiz on Spain’s Costa De La Luz one of my favourite ports on any cruise however the temperature has now dropped back to only 19c and rain is forecast. Cadiz boasts a history going back over 3,000 years and has much to see. The Baroque styled Cadiz Cathedral completed in 1838. Its large entrance flanked by two beautifully sculptured bell towers, topped by the domed roof never fail to make an impression. In the same square sits the Santiago Church, the Church of St. James dating back to 1638 and a starting point for pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela. The hop on/hop off bus stops outside the port gates and delivers a great trip around the city taking in the long sandy beaches, beautifully manicured parks, the old city quarter and much more. Cadiz is also close enough to Seville for a day trip.
Lisbon the next day, be up early and enjoy the transit along the River Tegus passing “Belem Tower” with its history dating back to 1519, on past the “Monument to the Discoveries” shaped as a ships bow built in memory of Henry the Navigator before passing under the 7,740ft April 25th Suspension Bridge connecting Lisbon to Almada and overseen by the 360ft “Cristo Rei” (Christ the King) statue inspired by Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro. The city is a mix of old and new, but all parts are readily accessible by one of the famous Lisbon Trams.
It’s then another day at sea before arriving in Vigo reputed to be Spain’s largest fishing port. From the esplanade it is an interesting but uphill climb to the town passing the small fish market and then the cathedral of Santa Maria completed in 1834 and designated a basilica by the Vatican in 2020.
Our final port of call is La Caruna on Spain’s north coast which greets us with rain and a chilly 10c prompting the decision to stay on the ship in the warm. That night we sail for our home port of Southampton across the Bay of Biscay which on this occasion is smooth with the sun shining from a clear blue sky.
Iona is a beautiful ship but large even by today’s standards. Second largest in the P&O fleet at 1,128ft long, 137ft wide, 227ft high capable of accommodating 5,000+ passengers attended by 1,800 crew. To keep so many passengers happy are 9 restaurants included in the fare and a further 9 that carry an extra charge. If you are thirsty try one of the 17 bars/lounges and if you are bored there are 9 entertainment venues. P&O regulars however will miss meeting the captain on the first formal night and being introduced to the senior officers, having your photo taken with him and officers hosting dinner tables. Iona no longer has the cocktail party for Peninsular Club members. I also missed not having shuttle buses at the various ports which are a long walk from the town as with Arrecife in Lanzarote, Santa Cruz de Tenerife when moored on the outer arm, Lisbon and Vigo. In the evenings the theatre was a mix of cabaret style acts and ‘Headliners’ shows, the Sky Dome was excellent and for me the place to be. Sit at one of the bars or eateries and watch the Freddie Mercury tribute act,
Rhinestone Country & Western, various singers, ariel acrobatic performances with various themes, all were excellent.
This is a ship for the young and fit, if you have a cabin at the forward end of the ship it’s a long walk to the stern for the included restaurants. Did I enjoy the trip, yes I did and will I book again, yes, but on one of the smaller ships.
Alan Fairfax December 2025 Picture credits: Alan Fairfax
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