A cruise without crowds

By Jeannine Williamson

As we neared the Isle of Mull and pretty town of Tobermory, with its paintbox coloured waterfront and bustle of cafes and shops, it was a bit of a shock to the system. After days of scanning horizons for whales, dolphins, eagles and seabirds, it was the sight of people – lots of them, enjoying the Scottish sunshine on an August afternoon – that felt most surprising.

Over the preceding week I’d discovered that on a voyage with Hebrides Cruises human life fades into the background, while nature takes centre stage with wildlife, weather and wild places dictating the pace.

We knew our sailing was scheduled to take us to Skye, the Small Isles and the Shiants, but our time aboard Lucy Mary, one of the line’s three small ships, did not have a rigid timetable and nothing was fixed in stone. Refreshingly, the rhythm of each day was set by Mother Nature and what skipper James Fairburns cheerfully called “the beasties”.

Routes and landings can change according to weather conditions and wildlife sightings, and plans can be rewritten in an instant – as we later found out – if something extraordinary appears.

We joined Lucy Mary in Oban, the harbour town known as the ‘gateway to the isles’. It accommodates just eight passengers, and on our cruise there were only six as two solo travellers had a cabin each. Introductions were made over cake and a glass of sparkling wine – a welcome surprise – in the convivial combined saloon and dining room. James explained the outline plans for the days ahead and introduced us to his four other crew members – a wildlife guide, chef, hostess and deckhand.

Founded in 1996, Hebrides Cruises is an award-winning family-run company operating wildlife cruises on the west coast of Scotland. Lucy Mary, originally built as a luxury yacht in 1994 and adapted for ocean sailing, joined the fleet in 2023 and was named after James’ daughter.

We’re in the spacious owner’s cabin, a haven of gleaming wood and comfort reflecting Lucy Mary’s previous guise, with fun touches such as a Harris Tweed covered water bottle denoting her new role. Each night, when the ship is anchored, we’re rocked by the gentle motion and sleep like babies. The three other twin cabins are compact, but have plenty of clever storage space and are perfectly adequate for a sailing where you’re going to be spending most of your time on the upper saloon deck, outdoors and ashore. That became clear at the outset.

I was in the middle of unpacking when wildlife guide Indy Greene called down to say there were dolphins swimming alongside. Next morning we temporarily abandoned breakfast to go out and marvel at the magnificent sight of a white-tailed eagle, the UK’s largest bird of prey, soaring overhead. Then it was time to look down, as more dolphins leapt and dived just a few feet away from Lucy Anne.

From then on, the competition between meals and wildlife sightings became a running joke. On several occasions plates were set aside and we swapped knives and forks for binoculars. Indy’s wildlife log filled rapidly, with Manx shearwaters, gannets, guillemots, porpoises, great northern divers and minke whales soon added to the growing list. And it was only the end of day one.

Ashore, the scenery was just as varied. At Ardnamurchan – the ‘headland of the great seas’ and most westerly point of the British mainland – a coastal walk led past lush vegetation, plunging cliffs and sea caves. On Eigg, one of the Small Isles, the scale of life shrank even further. Just five miles long, the island is owned and managed by its community of fewer than 100 residents. We went ashore by tender, watched by curious grey seals turning their heads in unison to follow our progress.

Then came the Shiants, a remote cluster of jagged islands and sea stacks rising abruptly from the water. The uninhabited islands are one of the most important breeding colonies for seabirds in Europe. Puffins bobbed around the boat in astonishing numbers, a reminder that for much of the year these charismatic birds live at sea. Conditions were calm enough for a landing on Eilean an Taighe, home to a simple bothy used by conservationists and birdwatchers. A steep climb was rewarded with panoramic views, and as we drew breath we looked down and saw Lucy Mary reduced to toy-like proportions.

From Skye we’d been due to turn south, back towards Oban. Instead, James received reports of sightings of fin whales in the Minch – the deep Atlantic sea channel between the mainland and Hebrides – and immediately changed course. The whales never materialised, but the detour delivered an unforgettable encounter with a circle of feeding minke whales and hundreds of seabirds circling overhead to secure their share of the spoils. It was proof that flexibility often brings the greatest rewards. James turned off Lucy Mary’s engine so we could drift through the spectacle, and his incredible drone footage was later screened on Scottish television.

James, a former lifeboat coxswain, and Indy, who has appeared on BBC’s Winterwatch, were walking compendiums of knowledge. Their expertise, enthusiasm, love and respect for the sea and nature was infectious. Lucy Mary has the friendly atmosphere of a house party with friends, and at the end of the sailing I felt as if I was part of a floating family.

Life on board was as much about indulgence as exploration. Chef Callum produced impressive meals, using locally sourced ingredients, while afternoon tea – with a different freshly-baked cake each day and a glass of fizz – became a cherished ritual. One afternoon, it was even ferried ashore by tender and served on a golden beach.

The final night delivered one last gift. After days of hoping, an otter finally appeared, spotted by Indy swimming in the shallows.

Exploring Scotland’s west coast by small ship certainly offers a front-row seat to some of the country’s most dramatic and wildlife-rich landscapes.

Fact file

Hebrides Cruises offers a variety of three- to 10-night wildlife sailings between April to October, with fares from £1,785 per person, including all shore tours, meals, soft drinks, afternoon tea and Wi-Fi.

An eight-night Skye, the Small Isles and the Shiants itinerary sailing round-trip from Oban aboard Lucy Mary costs from £4,450, departing May 6, 2027. Visit hebridescruises.co.uk or call 01631 711 986.

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