Steve Newman reports from the Baltic States

Estonia and Latvia
By Steve Newman

If you are keen to see wildlife on your travels but would like to mix this with some local culture and history then do consider the Baltic States of Estonia and Latvia.

Often overlooked these two countries have a lot going for them for the UK traveller. Not only are they only a two and a half hour flight away but they still hold huge tracts of native forest that are home to Brown Bears and Lynx and their coastlines hold some of the most spectacular bird migration sights you are ever likely to see.

Over sunny autumn days we travelled from Tallinn to Riga, following migration corridors, coastal life and peatbog stories across Estonia and Latvia.

Although this was primarily a wildlife trip I would advise you to explore these two cities so different and yet so alike. Tallin is still very medieval in its layout and buildings whilst the Art Nouveau architecture in Riga makes up roughly one third of all the buildings in the centre, making Latvia's capital the city with the highest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture anywhere in the world.

To appreciate their architecture it’s best to walk around them at dawn as the sun bathes them in the early morning light and the streets are deserted. Then later when the vibes of everyday life transform them into living and breathing entities.

A walk in The Forest

Estonia and Latvia both have National Parks that hold vast tracts of original European forest still inhabited by Brown Bear, Lynx and Wolves. For a fleeting split second I was lucky enough to see a Lynx as it walked between the trees, something I will remember for a very long time.

There are specialist companies that will organise tours for you and I have to say Baltic Nature Tourism were very good and helpful on this trip. The bird life too is amazing with some stunning woodpeckers and the larger owls such as Eagle, Ural and Great Grey Owl. The parks also contain large areas of Peat Bogs that you can either walk through using large snow shoe like footwear or walk above on raised wooden pathways depending how close you would like to get to nature!

We visited Tolkuse Bog, a raised peat bog in southwestern Estonia, located within the Luitemaa Nature Reserve. It features a 2.2 km boardwalk trail and an observation tower, providing access to typical bog landscapes and opportunities to observe wetland vegetation and bird species. There are a couple of steep climbs and descents on the walkway but it is an incredible experience none the less. You can also experience a small boat ride amongst the vast reedbed systems where Bitterns, Bearded Reedlings and Beavers make their home.

Life’s a Beach

Estonia has literally hundreds if not thousands of offshore islands and with Latvia some stunning beaches. We took a boat trip out to some of the islands and saw Grey Seals, White Tailed Sea Eagles and many sea birds but unfortunately, we were too early to spot Steller’s Eider a bird I have long wanted to see.

We also took an e-bike tour along the Latvian beaches and deep into the forest and even combined the two with long tours where you learn about the forest and even make non alcoholic cocktails along the way at different stops.

The traditional cuisine in the Baltic States is delicious. With an emphasis on local ingredients like fish, potatoes, dairy, and foraged foods such as mushrooms and berries. There are many small restaurants/guest houses a short walk from the shore where you can eat al fresco under the stars with only the sound of the waves lapping on the beach to keep you company. Try Baltic Herring often pickled or smoked served with black rye bread and butter. The smoked fish dishes have a rich intense flavour making them well worth trying.