A Slow Sip Through Belgium
Jeannine Williamson raises a glass to a Belgian barge cruise where the scenery is gentle, the engineering is spectacular
and there is always something interesting in the glass.
“After the theory, now let’s do the practice,” says our guide at the end of a tour through the vineyards and winery at Domaine Chant d’Éole. We need little encouragement as we head into the tasting room where a selection of sparkling wines and glasses are lined up on the bar.
Belgium’s largest vineyard, close to the French border, benefits from chalky soil similar to that of the Champagne region. We collectively nod in appreciation as we take our first sip of the local fizz. In a nation best-known for beer, discovering the delights of its sparkling wine is one of several firsts on this trip exploring Belgium by water. The journey between Halle and Ghent is CroisiEurope’s first barge cruise outside France and, for most of my fellow travellers, their first experience of barge cruising, too.
As we raise our glasses, it feels as though we are discovering a familiar country from a rather different perspective.
For starters, the MS Raymonde, which carries just 22 passengers with six crew, is a very different proposition from a conventional cruise ship or even a river cruise. Despite its small size, it packs a lot into a Tardis-like interior, from the cosy cabins on the lower deck through to a dining room, lounge furnished with squashy sofas, a café-style terrace and an upper sun deck.
The cabins are compact but cleverly designed, with unexpectedly roomy shower rooms and storage concealed behind wall panels. There is a desk, wall-mounted television and just enough space to make the room feel comfortable rather than cramped. Suitcases disappear neatly beneath the beds – a useful reminder to pack light, although there is little need for anything more formal than smart-casual clothes on this relaxed voyage.
Back on deck, there’s even a hot tub, where we exchange greetings with walkers and cyclists passing along the banks. Nobody seems to be in much of a hurry, least of all us.
But that really sums up barge cruising. You’re not racing from one destination to the next on a journey that would take around an hour by car or train. You’re taking the scenic route, watching the countryside, towns and villages of Wallonia and Flanders unfold at an agreeably leisurely pace – with plenty of surprises that can only be experienced on the canals and waterways
At Le Roeulx Raymonde enters one of two enormous water-filled chambers in the Strépy-Thieu boat lift, the largest in Europe and the second largest in the world after China’s Three Gorges Dam. The lift rises 240ft — transforming what previously required navigating a series of locks into one extraordinary vertical journey. Standing on deck as the whole barge rises skywards is surreal.
Close by is the Ronquières inclined plane, which is like a travelator for boats and is another spectacular feat of canal engineering. Watching these enormous pieces of infrastructure at work is a reminder that this apparently tranquil waterway has a serious industrial history.
There’s plenty to discover ashore, too, with at least one included excursion each day, and sometimes two. At Château de Beloeil, we explore what is often called the ‘Belgian Versailles’. It may lack the extravagant scale of Versailles, but it has considerable charm. Particularly impressive is the library, with more than 20,000 rare books, some dating from the invention of the printing press to the modern day. Remarkably, they survived a devastating fire in 1900 that ravaged much of the castle.
Mons provides a more poignant stop. Its medieval centre, handsome buildings and cobbled streets belie a turbulent history, which our guide brings vividly to life as he tells us about the city’s role in the First World War. The first and last British soldiers to die in the conflict are buried at St Symphorien Military Cemetery, just outside the city, their graves facing one another across the grounds.
Back on board, starting with buffet breakfast, days settle into a pleasing routine. At 11am precisely, purser Hans rings a bell to announce the arrival of the cocktail (and mocktail) of the day. It’s less an announcement than a summons, and resistance is generally considered pointless. Hans is part host, part fascinating raconteur and part walking encyclopaedia, dispensing local knowledge with warmth and good humour. He also has a flair for the theatrical, introducing the cheese at each meal with a flourish before revealing its name, origins and snippets of history. By the end of the week, we have learnt a surprising amount about Belgian cheese, thanks in no small part to his entertaining introductions.
Before every mealtime, the chef also emerges from his galley to explain the dishes of the day – a set menu for lunch and dinner which can be adapted for vegetarians – along with the accompanying wines, which are all part of CroisiEurope’s generous open bar included in the fare. Naturally, Belgium’s other great liquid tradition also features, with the chance to visit several breweries and a themed night on board the barge with a strong Trappist beer to accompany one of the courses. Following on from the vineyard visit, we also visit the family-owned Braeckman distillery, which produces gin and whisky as well as genever, a traditional spirit in Belgium and the neigbouring Netherlands.
There is also plenty of time for chocolate shopping, with our guides helping us navigate the bewildering choice of chocolatiers in Brussels and Bruges and pointing us towards some of their favourites. Indeed, another of the itinerary’s pleasures is there’s enough structure to make exploring easy, but enough free time to wander, browse and follow your own interests. You can even skip excursions and do your own thing.
All in all, it is a wonderfully unhurried way to explore the country, with good food, local drinks and plenty of memorable discoveries along the way.
I have certainly discovered that there is rather more to Belgium than beer – although there is plenty of that too. From sparkling wine and gin to chocolate, castles and medieval cities, the journey has been a leisurely feast for the senses. But perhaps the greatest pleasure is simply having time to drink it all in: the changing landscape, the history, the quiet waterways and the easy rhythm of life on board.
With a glass in hand, following Hans’ morning bell, the Raymonde glides into Ghent beneath a succession of bridges, with colourful houses lining the canal on either side. It seems the perfect way to toast a country best enjoyed slowly.
Jeannine Williamson September 2026 Picture credits Jeannine Williamson and CrosiEurope
BOOK IT
CroisiEurope has the six-night Indulge in Art, Heritage, and Flavours on a Cruise, from Ghent to Halle or in reverse, with cruise-only fares from £2,877, including daily excursions, meals, drinks and Wi-Fi. CroisiEurope can also package the cruise to include flights or travel by Eurostar with transfers to and from the barge.
Visit croisieurope.co.uk or call 01756 691269
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