Canals, culture and crispy frites
From sipping craft beer to discovering a wonderfully eccentric chip museum, a long weekend with Ambassador Cruise Line packs in flavour, history and fun
By Jeannine Williamson
I doubt there are any other museums in the world with a cabaret show starring a pair of dancing fries who make a playful dig at the British habit of splashing vinegar on chips. But Belgium has always taken its frites very seriously.
Inside Bruges’ wonderfully quirky Frietmuseum, dedicated entirely to the history and culture of chips, I embarked on an unexpectedly entertaining journey through the humble potato’s rise to culinary stardom. Housed in a handsome medieval building in the heart of the UNESCO-listed city, the museum mixes history with humour.
One moment I’m reading about the origins of potatoes in Peru, the next I’m standing in front of the animated cabaret. Singing about the various toppings for chips, the tuneful fries dismiss the suggestion of vinegar with the lyrics: “Are you crazy or English? We did Brexit for that!” Elsewhere, there’s the chance to step behind the counter of a frites van, take a look at vintage fryers, retro advertising posters and buy potato beer. It was all delightfully bonkers, and ended in the basement cafe where I couldn’t resist buying a cone of freshly cooked frites – with mayonnaise on the side, of course.
My visit was during a three-night sailing aboard Ambassador Cruise Line’s Ambience, departing from London Tilbury on an easy no-fly itinerary to Amsterdam and Bruges. For travellers wanting a relaxed European break without airports, luggage restrictions or lengthy travel days, it is an appealing alternative that combines leisurely cruising with time ashore in some of northern Europe’s prettiest destinations.
Our first port of call was IJmuiden, gateway to Amsterdam and the surrounding towns of North Holland. Rather than heading to the cosmopolitan city, which I’d visited fairly recently, I opted for Ambassador’s excursion to Haarlem, often described as a miniature version of the Dutch capital. It offers all the postcard-worthy charm you expect from the Netherlands – cobbled streets, peaceful canals, leaning gabled houses and bicycles rattling over tiny bridges – on a smaller scale.
The walking tour took us to hidden courtyards known as hofjes, past historic churches and through market squares lined with tempting cheese stands before culminating at Jopen brewery, ingeniously housed inside a former church. Beneath vaulted ceilings and stained-glass windows, we settled down to sample a couple of the craft beers. In a place where centuries-old architecture meets modern Dutch brewing creativity, it was an unusual but memorable setting for a tasting session,
The following morning we docked in Zeebrugge, with Bruges just a short transfer away. If Haarlem feels quietly elegant, Bruges is a pure fairytale. Church spires rise above peaceful canals, where resident swans glide past, and chocolate shops seem to occupy every second building. Waffles scent the air and cafe terraces spill onto cobbled lanes. Alongside the Frietmuseum, it offered countless temptations for food lovers.
Back onboard Ambience, dining continued to be a central part of the experience. The Buckingham Restaurant offers traditional multi-course dinners with polished service, while the more casual Borough Market buffet caters for everything from hearty breakfasts to late-night snacks with a variety of food stations showcasing different cuisines, including one that’s unashamedly British.
One evening I dined in Saffron, the ship’s delicious speciality Indian restaurant, and another night chose the intimate and exclusive Chef’s Table. Providing a theatrical gourmet option for anyone celebrating a special occasion or simply wanting a treat, it was a real showstopper with different wines to accompany seemingly never-ending courses.
Accommodation ranges from affordable inside cabins to spacious suites complete with extra touches including continental breakfast service, fruit and a complimentary bottle of wine. Even standard cabins are thoughtfully equipped, and the tea-making facilities in every room are always appreciated by UK guests.
From the moment you board, the 1,400-passenger Ambience has an easy charm. There’s enough space for a good selection of restaurants, bars and entertainment venues, yet it never feels overwhelming — ideal for travellers who appreciate a more classic style of cruising rather than the high-energy feel of some of today’s mega-ships. First launched in the early 1990s before undergoing a major refurbishment for Ambassador, the vessel still echoes the elegance of stylish ocean travel. Expansive promenade decks are perfect for an evening stroll, lofty atriums and ceilings add a touch of old-school glamour and the overall ambience on this namesake ship is friendly and relaxed.
While Ambassador is especially popular with the over-50s market, onboard life is far from dull. After dark, bands, musicians and singers performed throughout the lounges and bars, while the theatre staged lively production shows. The Purple Turtle pub was a social hub throughout the day and evening, attracting quiz lovers and night owls, while more tranquil venues such as the leafy Botanical Lounge and Raffles offered a sophisticated spot for cocktails accompanied by soft piano melodies.
Perhaps the greatest luxury of this short cruise was the unhurried rhythm of it all. There were no airport queues or frantic transfers – I opted for Ambassador’s handy shuttle from Victoria Coach Station – and no pressure to squeeze something into every minute. Quite a few passengers were happy to spend time aboard with a book from the library. The days drifted by gently, with just enough time ashore to savour each destination without feeling rushed.
As I reflected on the trip, the memories that lingered most vividly brought me back to the Frietmuseum. Some holidays are remembered for grand landmarks or bucket-list experiences, while others stay with you simply because smaller things, like the exceptional chips. And there’s nothing wrong with that.
Jeannine Williamson May 2026 pic credits Ambassador Cruise Line and Jeannine Williamson
Fact file
Ambassador Cruise Line offers a range of three-night cruises to Holland and Belgium from London Tilbury from £259 per person, plus a range of short break cruises to Holland, Belgium and other destinations from London Tilbury, Newcastle Tyne, Bristol Royal Portbury and Portsmouth from £209 per person.
Visit ambassadorcruiseline.com or call 0330 162 4111
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